Hiking from Leme to Babilonia: An Unexpected Adventure
- Ward B
- Aug 4, 2024
- 3 min read
Updated: Nov 5, 2024
The hike from Leme offers stunning views of Sugarloaf Mountain, but a gang encounter in Babilonia gave the hike an unexpected turn.
On my last days of my stay in Rio De Janeiro, I felt increasingly confident in my ability to assess the safety situation. I decided to do the hike from Leme to enjoy both the view of Sugarloaf Mountain and Copacabana Beach. The challenge was that this hike would go through a favela called Babilonia. According to online sources, Babilonia is supposedly a pacified favela. To be on the safe side, I decided to hire a local guide in the favela. The hike had good ratings, and nobody reported anything unsafe in the Google reviews.
When arriving at the entrance of the favela, half a dozen police cars were parked there. A police man stood guard with an automatic rifle, which should have been a tell-tale sign. I asked a local shop owner for a guide. Soon, a young guy on a motorcycle picked me up. We drove a few minutes uphill to pick up an English translator who joined us. The guide learned his English while training and competing in BJJ in California.
The Hike
The tour up by foot went through half jungle, half favela. The lower houses had a sewage system and a concrete road. However, the favela deteriorated quickly. The road transformed into a dirt road, and a homemade sewage system made from bamboo and electricity.
We passed a couple of WW2 bunkers and excellent viewpoints of the Sugarloaf mountain. Both guides explained the history of the hill and favela Babilonia. The favela now hosts about 3,000 or more people.
An Unsettling Encounter
On the way back, we took an alternative road. But then things went literally and figuratively downhill fast. We passed by a two-story building and heard people whistling. On top of the building were three 'bandidos' or gang members. My English guide started looking clearly distressed. They asked if I had any money for them to drink something and if I wanted to pose with a gun, which I declined both. The guide promised to bring them money later for drinks as a toll for passage.
A gang of armed teenagers
A few steps down, a kid of about 14 years old was sitting on a chair, playing with a gun while holding guard. He was sitting a maximum of 20 meters uphill from where the police men were also holding guard, with the favela houses blocking the line of sight.
In a safer place, I paid my guides a fair price for their time and about 250 reals extra (40 euros) as a bribe to the gang they promised. I was happy to be safely get out of there with all my belongings.
Origins of Favelas
Favelas originated in the late 19th century when soldiers, having fought in the Canudos War, returned to Rio de Janeiro without a place to live. They settled on the hillsides and built makeshift homes.
Over time, economic disparity, lack of affordable housing, and rural-to-urban migration contributed to the expansion of these informal settlements. Today, favelas are often controlled by gangs or militias who impose their own rule and provide some form of order in the absence of the state. These areas can be dangerous, but they are also vibrant communities with rich cultural histories.
Depending on the favela or even the location within the favela, there are basic sewage systems and roads or a total absence of it.
Reflection
In the evening, over a nice dinner with a friend, I talked through my experiences. We came to the conclusion that a favela is clearly never completely pacified. And we agreed that Google Reviews, even when recent, cannot always be trusted either.
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